​Pruning and Bending


In an indoor garden, we do not have the luxury of allowing our plants to grow tall and bushy as though they were outside. We have size limitations, due to ceiling height and other considerations that make growth control vital. The tough thing to do is to perform these actions without inhibiting flower and fruit production.
Cutting the plant’s meristem (top growth tip) causes auxins and hormones to diffuse into the lower branches. Remove the very top of the plant, down 1 or 2 sets of branches. The plant will grow wider, but not as tall.
For tall, narrow plants, prune off the tips of each branch, except for the meristem.
Bending the branches horizontally and then tying them down will cause vertical growth spikes at the leaf nodes, resulting in more flowering sites. Do not worry if a stem folds; simply straighten it out. Sometimes a wooden splint is necessary. Don’t worry; the plant will heal itself.
Any way you prune, you must do so with sterile, sharp blades. Dip in rubbing alcohol between ALL cuts, since an open wound is an invitation for fungal and disease invasions.
Always remove all dead growth. Prune for primary (main branch tips) and secondary (flowering sites along the branches) growth. Remove all tertiary (wispy sprouts on the meristem) growth as soon as you notice it. Dispose of all trimmings immediately; dead plant matter in you grow room begs for insects and disease. Do not remove large green shade leaves to excess. These are the photosynthesis powerhouses. Only trim off half dead or injured leaves. Make sure the flowering sites are balanced by the amount of leaves. During late flowering, many of these leaves will naturally drop away